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A GUIDE TO SELVEDGE DENIM
16 MARCH, 2015

A GUIDE TO SELVEDGE DENIM

RAW OR SELVEDGE, WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?
A common misunderstanding when it comes to selvedge is that raw denim equals selvedge denim and vice versa. This is not the case. Raw denim is denim in its original state: unwashed, untreated and unprocessed which is how all denim starts off, selvedge or non-selvedge. Once the denim has been washed, it is no longer raw. Selvedge refers to the edge and raw refers to a lack of pre-washing of the fabric.

SO, WHAT IS SELVEDGE?
Selvedge (also known as selvage) is a term derived from the words "self-edge" which refers to the finished edges of fabric that run down either side. The edge of selvedge denim has a clean finish; it will not unravel and is actually used as the out seam of the garment. If you flip a pair at the cuff, you'll see a narrow white band of fabric punctuated by a red stitched line flanking the main leg seam. That's the selvedge, which is traditionally red but can be whatever colour a brand selects. A non-selvedge jean will need a merrow stitch on the edge to keep it from unravelling.

THE TECHNICAL BIT, HOW IS SELVEDGE MADE?
Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle-looms, which use a continuous thread that goes back and forth in the weaving process, ultimately creating a closed-off, non-fraying edge. To maximize usage, companies would use denim all the way to the self-edge, hiding the edges in the sewing process.
The traditional shuttle-looms, dating back to the 1950's, produced three metres of 75-centimetre-wide selvedge denim per hour. This low speed produces far less stress on the yarn making the hand of the denim softer and the fabric more durable and in turn making the denim more expensive. Modern looms, however, are ten times faster with computers controlling much of the process allowing selvedge denim to become more affordable.

IS IT BETTER QUALITY?
As selvedge denim has regained popularity over the last decade, the term has become associated with premium jeans. The use of selvedge denim and the presence of a selvedge out seam should not be seen as a stamp of quality, just as its absence should not be seen as low quality. The cotton and the dyeing process used for selvedge are not necessarily any different from those used for non-selvedge. In question of comfort, non-selvedge may offer somewhat more flexibility in fabric. However, selvedge denim is undeniably more desirable and here at Duel Denim we offer a range of high quality selvedge jeans in various different fits. To find out more, please click the link below.

To see our Selvedge Denim Jeans Click Here
MODAFABRIEK AW15
4 MARCH, 2015

MODAFABRIEK AW15

Modafabriek Trade Show in Amsterdam

Duel Denim had the opportunity to attend Modefabriek in Amsterdam on 25th and 26th January. With two busy and exciting days, in amongst 600 different brands and over 19,000 visitors from the Netherlands, Europe and overseas, we were overwhelmed with the interest in Duel Denim and our Autumn / Winter 15' Collection.

Our Autumn / Winter 15' collection is based on 6 Cycles:

Natural comes first in the cycle, which is of course raw denim, untreated with a rich clean base colour, in its pure and natural form.
Gradual is second, with a subtle fade out effect this allows the wearer to break into the garment, softening the fabric and personalising it to their unique shape.
Optimum is next showing natural exposure and repeated wash cycles allowing the garment to reach its peak.
Vintage is the fourth cycle, allowing the garments characteristics to start opening up as it is worn, giving an authentic, enhanced fade out appearance.
Distress is fifth in the cycle. This is where the garment has aged, been stripped of its colour through wear and tear and comes to the end of its cycle, finally forming an identity.
Advanced is the final cycle, which gives the opportunity for the denim to progressively move forward and evolve by combining innovated fabrics, patterns, wash treatments and motivated talented artisans.
Jacket Required AW15
26 FEBRUARY, 2015

JACKET REQUIRED AW15

Jacket Required Menswear Trade Show

Duel Denim exhibited at Jacket Required for the second time running this year showcasing our Autumn/Winter 15' collection. It kicked off on February 4th at The Old Truman Brewery in London where it started to gather momentum right from the word go. The second day was not quite as good as the first which saw buyers from across the UK and Ireland keen on working with Duel Denim for AW15.

Sportswear International wrote: "Duel Denim is also progressing well. Its tightly edited range, which made for an attractive, uncluttered stand, reflected the 'cycle of denim'. The spectrum started with a pair of dry denim jeans, and the styles that sat alongside it gradually took on a more faded and worn look, ending in soft grey shades and subtle distressing. Contrast knit sweaters and brushed cotton tees with raw-edged pockets complemented the denim offering"

Original Article - www.sportswearnet.com
The Artist Behind the Indigo Heart
26 FEBRUARY, 2015

THE ARTIST BEHIND THE INDIGO HEART

An Interview with Anne Wolf - the Artist behind the Indigo Heart

Allow us to introduce...
Anne Wolf, a contemporary artist and sculptor, who creates ground-breaking works with the most tactile and tangible materials, including clay, reclaimed materials, and denim. She is the creator behind the Indigo Heart, which was part of the Duel Denim AW14 Look Book.

What inspired your Anatomical Denim series?
The long and difficult process of bringing my son into the world resulted, for a time, in my preoccupation with his heartbeat. The series began as a hybrid of scientific inquiry and physical prayer...The inquiry was about the strength, fragility and mystery of this human embodiment.

Why did you choose denim to create the pieces? 

I needed a material to make the hearts that felt like biological material. For some inexplicable reason, I had saved many of my old blue jeans for years...some I had worn since I was a teenager. There was a certain authenticity about them that was important to me. They held my own history. They were a part of me. The wear and fading, marks, paint splashes and other stains seemed to make them as much genes as jeans. They were real.

How long does each piece take to create?
The time it takes to create a piece varies - it's something like 12-45 hours, depending on the detail or other technical difficulties.

Is there anything specific that inspires your work? 

There have been so many and such a wide variety of inspirations...It would be surprising to you because many of the artists who have inspired me make work that is nothing like mine. Some of my early mentors were the painter Joan Brown and sculptors Dennis Leon and Viola Frey. They each, in their own way, taught me to be true to myself and to follow my own visions and curiosities.

What do you enjoy most about being an artisan?
I value the ability to say something about human experience that words cannot touch...to find meaning and to better understand my world through a process of manipulating materials, physically working through questions and ideas.

Have you always loved created art or was there a something of a "eureka" revelation?
I've loved making art since I can remember. Although I was able to succeed in academic subjects, written and verbal language has always felt like a "second language" to me. Visual language is my first and most comfortable language. In art, I have always felt happy and at home.

Do you have a favourite piece and if so, which one?
I can't say. Each has its own value to me. Each piece does its work on me - even the disasters. I have something to learn from each one.

If you would like to find out more about Anne Wolf click here.


Overdressed Underprepared
5 DECEMBER, 2014

OVERDRESSED UNDERPREPARED

Selvedge denim has been on my list of wants for quite some time, but I seem to struggle with the fit of them. You can get selvedge denim easily in slim fit, but my personal preference lies within skinny fit jeans. Don't misconstrued this to mean skin-tight jeans that make you look like you have vacuum-packed your man-parts, no. I simply like jeans with a smaller cuff width, considering the fact that I have rugby player-like thighs, juxtaposed with chicken-like ankles. Not ideal.

Enter the Waske skinny fit raw selvedge jeans from Duel Denim, for a minuscule £69.99. Consider my problems solved.

I recently spoke of my love for a pair of raw Nudie Jeans I received from Woodhouse Clothing. Along with that, I also said that I would always be a Nudie Jeans man. Well, I will be the first to admit that I was wrong there. I still love Nudie Jeans and I will always love those jeans, but Duel Denim has rocketed to the top of my denim list. The quality of these jeans is unbelievable for the price.

It all makes sense when you find out that the brand was born earlier this year in Lancashire, the heart of the UK cotton industry, and it is the brainchild of a former creative manager from BOSS Orange denim. There is simply nothing bad about that combination! There was a gap in the denim market that has definitely been filled by Duel Denim: Truly high quality denim at an easily accessible price point.

After wearing these jeans for a couple of weeks, I have absolutely no complaints. They hold their shape incredibly well and I really look forward to how they are going to break in. Being made from 13oz stretch selvedge denim means that they should break in well, but obviously the stretch will hold them back a little bit.

Duel Denim offer four fits in total: Tatsu (Super skinny), Waske (Skinny), Hiryu (Slim) and Curtana (Regular). They really do have something for everyone, and each one is available in a selection of washes. Unfortunately, I believe the Waske is the only one available in raw at the moment, but I have been told that the selvedge raw will be introduced in the Hiryu and Curtana fits for SS15. Either way, I'm loving the Waske, and I'd love to try out the Tatsu as well.

If you're looking for a new pair of jeans - whether you are after raw, selvedge or simply some great denim - look no further than Duel Denim.

Original Article
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